Cost is driven mainly by whether plumbing relocates and what finish level you choose. A hall bathroom with fixtures staying in place sits at the lower end. A primary bath with a repositioned shower, custom glass, and stone surfaces sits considerably higher. AMG Proline provides a fixed written price after measuring the room, with allowances itemized for tile, fixtures, and countertops, so you can see exactly where the money is allocated instead of receiving one lump figure.

Yes, for most projects. Bathroom work that relocates plumbing, adds electrical circuits, or modifies framing requires a Village of Orland Park permit, with inspections at defined stages. Simply replacing a vanity or repainting generally does not. We pull the permit, schedule inspections, and meet the inspector on site, then provide the documentation at closeout so you have a record when you eventually sell the home.

The sequence is consistent across nearly every project. Design and material selection come first, then permitting, then demolition. Rough plumbing and electrical follow, with an inspection before anything closes up. Then insulation and backer board, waterproofing, tile, and finally fixtures, vanity, countertop, glass, and paint. Countertops and shower glass are templated after the walls are set, which is why those two items typically arrive last and drive the finish date.

Cosmetic work such as painting, changing hardware, or swapping a vanity in place is reasonable to do yourself. Anything involving the shower is not, because tile is not waterproof and the membrane behind it has to be installed correctly or the assembly leaks into the structure. Plumbing and electrical changes also require permits and inspections in Orland Park. The most expensive repairs we're called for are usually failed DIY shower pans.

Yes, and this is most of what we do in standard hall bathrooms. Converting a tub to a walk-in shower with clear glass removes the visual barrier that makes the room feel closed in. A wall-hung or floating vanity exposes floor and reads larger. Larger-format tile means fewer grout lines. Recessed niches replace shelving that projects into the space. None of these require touching the footprint.

It depends on how many bathrooms the home has. If it's the only full bathroom, keeping at least one tub is generally advisable, since buyers with small children specifically look for one. In a house with multiple full baths, converting the primary bathroom's tub to a large walk-in shower is usually the stronger move, because that's the configuration most buyers now expect in a primary suite.

Allocate first to the elements you can't see and can't easily redo: waterproofing, the shower pan assembly, ventilation, and any plumbing corrections. Those are where failures become expensive later. Tile, fixtures, vanities, and hardware are where the budget genuinely flexes, and mid-range choices often perform nearly identically to premium ones in daily use. Also hold back roughly ten percent as contingency, because older homes occasionally reveal something behind the wall.

No. Most clients give us access and carry on with their normal routines. We agree on entry arrangements before the start date, protect the pathway to the work area, and keep the site clean daily. You'll get regular updates from your project lead, and we schedule the decision points, like selections and the pre-tile walkthrough, at times that suit you rather than requiring you to be present throughout.

Small changes are usually manageable, and we'd rather you speak up early than live with something you dislike. What matters is timing. A layout change before rough plumbing is straightforward. The same change after tile is set means undoing finished work. Any change gets priced in writing with a schedule adjustment before we proceed, so nothing appears on the final invoice that you didn't approve first.